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Oasis Electronic (Spanish)


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  • Fotografía de Paul Salopek

    FOTOGRAFÍA DE PAUL SALOPEK

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    Marque "N" de nómada.

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    Herramientas de supervivencia, antiguos y nuevos, en las tierras baldías de Afar: a jile o daga tradicional, un fusil Kalashnikov para defenderse de las incursiones de granja, y un teléfono móvil.

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  • 28 de enero 2013

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por Paul Salopek

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Dalifagi pueblo, Etiopía, 10 ° 37'34.8 '' N, 40 ° 18'43.9 '' E

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El agua es el oro en el Triángulo de Afar, en Etiopía. No es ninguna sorpresa. Está en uno de los desiertos más calientes del mundo.Caminando por tres días recientemente cerca de la escarpa occidental del Valle del Rift, guía Ahmed Alema Hessan y me encontré con una mancha de agua de lluvia fangosa para aliviar la sed de nuestros camellos. Pero nos encontramos con un nuevo tipo de pozo de agua un día después-un oasis codiciado de electrones, el pueblo de Dalifagi.

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Fotografía de Paul Salopek

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Las inmensas Saltscapes que se sitúan en las fronteras de Etiopía, Djibouti y Eritrea ni siquiera fueron mapeados hasta la década de 1920. Durante siglos, los pastores Afar marciales que gobernaron la zona resistieron todas las incursiones por el mundo exterior. Hoy, sin embargo, se abrazan la revolución de la información con una venganza. "Se les ha dado el poder", dice Mulukan Ayalu, 23, un técnico del gobierno etíope que mantiene la planta de energía en pequeña Dalifagi. "Pueden llamar a diferentes comerciantes de cabra. Ellos pueden elegir a sus precios de venta ".

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Los generadores diesel de Dalifagi no arrojan mucha sombra. Y ofrecen escaso hábitat para pájaros tejedores o gacelas. Pero los pistones chinos traquetea fuera una corriente de 220 voltios durante seis horas al día. En el proceso, han transformado un puesto de avanzada de final de la carretera que estaba desierto prístino hace tan sólo 20 años en el último centro de la revolución-a la información imán para los pastores Afar que caminan desde kilómetros a la redonda, desesperado por saciar su teléfono celular adicción con una carga de batería.

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Mulukan Ayalu, que puede ser el hombre más ocupado en Dalifagi. Fotografía de Paul Salopek

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Como maestro y del oasis electrónica, Ayalu recarga teléfonos celulares nómadas para unos pocos centavos. Los lunes-mercado diario sendero trillado Afar pastores se alinean en la puerta de su oficina con los pliegues de la camisa-sarong como cargados de teléfonos celulares muertos de vecinos lejanos. Clientes que dejar sus teléfonos para recarga se les da una ficha hecha a mano. Los números ahora se elevan a cientos. Algunos proveedores de escasos electrones en frontera de información de África ponen aún más creativo. En el cercano pueblo de Afar, en Asaita, un empresario local ha jigsawed juntos un aparato Frankensteinish que los teléfonos rápidas cargas de los clientes en cuestión de minutos.

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Fotografía de Juan Stanmeyer-VII

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Por la noche, cuando el aparato está encendido, los residentes de Dalifagi participar en una nueva práctica cultural que no se difunda desde Manhattan-la cena de poder, con los teléfonos celulares sujetan a las orejas. Cuando dos Afars se reúnen en el desierto, a menudo se llevan a cabo una dagu, un intercambio formal de noticias con un largo saludo de llamada y respuesta. "Ahora tenemos Dagu, dagu, dagu todo el tiempo en el teléfono", dice Ahmed Alema Hessan.

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Como oasis van, el pozo de agua electrónica en Dalifagi nunca atraen a turistas de aventura, y mucho menos a inspirar a los versos de los poetas de la caravana, pero es la historia real en el África sub-sahariana. Novecientos millones de personas. Un sprint de cabeza en la era digital que salta más de un siglo de la tecnología analógica.La explosión de aspiraciones. Consecuencias desconocidas.

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En Etiopía, el gobierno está expandiendo agresivamente su red móvil estatal. El año pasado, el uso de células disparado en un asombroso 30 por ciento, a más de 17 millones de suscriptores. En aislada Dalfagi, incluso la rusticidad frontera de los tacos comunales se desvanecerá. El próximo año, las líneas eléctricas fijas llegan."Dentro de veinte años? Habrá diferentes personas Afar ", dijo Haji Boddaya Qibad, un líder político local de los nómadas. "La vida no será camellos y ovejas nunca más."

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Fotografía de Paul Salopek

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DMU Timestamp: October 04, 2014 02:10

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